Wee think Wee is WEEpaired!

Words by Barry:

“FINALLY”..Wee is WEpaired.

You almost become one with your bike on a journey like this. Wee has somehow hung in there for more than a month, badly in need of  repairs, but you just don’t take your bike out when things are suspect. In our situation we had to keep moving, so Wee carried on with bubble gum, bandaids, duct tape and a whole lot of luck.

Gilbert, my new best friend in Liberia, Costa Rica, runs Moto Liberia, and has Wee purring like a kitten.

I have to again thank home base coordinator, Mark Foan, for diagnosing what I needed, then sending all the repair manual info required.

I have to thank Alex in Cuzco for having his mechanics confirm Marks diagnoses.

I have to thank Ryan at River City Suzuki for getting all the parts and my honey Pam for getting the parts down to Central America.

Gilbert gave Wee an oil change and filter, air filter, clutch actuater oil seal, new front and rear sprockets, new chain, replaced headlight, repaired center stand, complete check-up and as he had once been a body man, he fixed some fairing damage that I had repaired with duct tape.

Once again we managed to meet the right guy at the right time.

Thanks Gilbert, I doubt you know how much I appreciate the fast friendly efficient service you gave Wee.

Pam & I rode out 80k to our resort, Wee was smooth as silk, and even the Costa Rica size bugs couldn’t wipe the smile off my face.

Barry and the three Amigos are happy!

Feb 24 – 25 David Panama to Liberia Costa rica

Leaving David, we hit roads that had yet to be twinned and were in very bad shape, the concrete would rock as we would cross broken pieces, the pavement had manhole sized cracks. Eyes wide open were needed at all times. However beside all of this, the work was heavily underway for twinning, clearly Panama is pending huge amounts to four lane from end of the country to the other.

One picture I missed as I was going to snap it next time I saw one, but then never did again, was a sign warning about Armendillo and Monkey crossings. Struck our funny bones..we did see a lot of large reptiles (up to 4 ft) crossing the road, but they were too fast for us.

We hit the border Into Costa Rica fairly early and actually drove right through it before we realized that this area was the border. It was a very strange duty free zone in our minds, more about shopping than a border crossing.

The border was somewhat more complex than most we had crossed inspite of next to no line ups and people trying to be helpfull. It consisted  of many steps lots of back and forths and of course the need for the infamous photocopies a couple of times. This border was our first to pay a helper with moving us through, as we’d be told we were done, go away, but that only meant that particular stage.. Yet another good intro and prep for what are reputed to be the worst borders a little further north.

These pictures paint yet another picture of blackened windows and a little waist level mail slot to talk through and do your business.

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All of us were instantly struck crossing the border once again at how the scencery had changed, into dense tropical forest, rolling hills and an even more attractive country. This continued, it is everything the all pictures show for anyone who has not been. (unfortunately not our pics, it was 37+ degrees we were on a mission other than picute taking)

Miles and miles ofbeautiful palm groves lined the roads.

Along the way, One of the Alaska crew,  Larry, advised us to stop at the Tarcoles River Bridge to check out the scenery.

Take a close look along the left side of the river bank.

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We counted 35 in all, some of them were huge, the one above must have been near 12 ft.

Also note the shadows of the ones submerged.

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Note the sign for horses for rent? To look at Crocadiles? I don’t think so!

Along the way we stopped to admire the beach and a young guy and his mother stopped, he was nearly jumping out of his skin to get a picture on the bike.

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Also check out the golf cart/beach buggy

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We made it to Liberia by noon on the 25th and have been spending our time giving our bikes a badly needed baths.  Sourcing a Weepair shop since the parts will all arrive Friday nite, so this should breathe a new chapter into it’s life, BMW fingers are crossed! And mostly winding down and getting some rest in anticipation of the girls arrival on the 27th.

It is an amazing milestone in many ways, we arrived in Buenos Aires on Dec 27th, two full months ago, 20,000 K ago and 30,000 blog views ago.

We just reflected that it was about 10,000 K or one month ago, we had decided on the final meet date for the girls and inspite of a hurdle or two thrown at us, we managed to arrive in time for a bit of badly needed R&R before they arrive. Good planning or good luck, the latter I think!

So far the trip has been amazing overall, next to no rain, which we can’t believe, we have not had a cross word between us.

What we have had so far is an incredible trip with  loads of laughs, lots of comradery, great scenery and many wonderful memories to cherish. The mishaps have so often cemented the memory and generated the most laughs!

We look forward to the rest of our journey home!

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Fresh Banana anyone? These from trees at our hotel.

We are now all heading in separate directions, Ernie and I touring in different areas around Costa Rica and Barry staying put enjoying a beachside resort.

Although we may be quiet on the blog for a bit, enjoying the girl’s visit, I’m sure there will be a story or two and the odd pic that we will post afterwards.

Thanks for following and adding to our trip.

Stay tuned, for March 8th when we return – The Three Amigos

Feb 23 Panama city to David Panama

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Did we catch your attention?

We thought we might need something dramatic since it’s been a while!

This is a picture  in our room in panama.

This day was was pretty straightforward, the roads were great, no construction to speak of, the land was flat but still yet somewhat tropical looking. We were able to get in some miles today inspite of leaving late due to Weepairs and yup the Wee worked well today a relief for all!      

Feb 22 Panama Panama Pictorial


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A picture tour of Panama

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A building, one of many undergoing restoration

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The bay looking back towards our hotel in the big city!

image One of the orignial Catholic buildings, most have been destroyed by fire.

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We have been struck by the many beautiful architecturally designed buildings!

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Old town – the Panama we thought we we were arriving to, excuse our ignorance.

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The three Amigos being artistic. A personal favoutrite shot.

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A church, normal square but check out the white pillars on the sides, unique!

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The locks of the Panama Canal

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Notice the height

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See it now

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Twin canals, a third larger canal being built

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The mules keeping the boat straight with a few feet to spare.

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The mules keeping the ship straight on a downhill

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Our small tour group, a couple from Colombia, a great pair of fun girls from Brazil and the three Amigos.

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Our great Panamanian tour guide

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This is a great safe, sophisticated city, We’d recommend it!

Feb 21 Colon to Panama city Panama

Barry and the clutchless Wee (among other things) – words by Barry:

The trip from Colon to Panama City wasn’t going to be easy, no clutch is no problem once you’re moving, but the stop and go is a bitch. We got out of Colon pretty good. Had to kill the motor for one stop sign, but ran the next. We managed to time all the lights so reached Panama City with just the one hiccup.

Panama City was a different story. Traffic, signals and confusion. We had to start and stop several times and managed to get separated when we took some wrong turns and tried to double back.

We knew where we were going, but the intersections and turn offs, if missed, led you miles out of the way. At one point, after getting separated, I knew from Zumo I was less than 500yds from the Radisson, but it said almost 2km to get there.

I saw a large construction warning type sign that said something in Spanish about local traffic only. The laneway looked to be going towards where I wanted to go and I’m hopeing I can slip down some alleys or a back route to the hotel, so up the lane I go.

Big mistake, it was a freeway off ramp. In my haste to turn around l manage to drop the bike, but a couple of construction workers are right there and help me out.

I quickly exit off the ramp, and of course a cop is standing right there and wiggling his finger for me to pull over. Asks, in Spanish, for my drivers license then my passport, then points to a tiny sign that says no entry, and says ‘ticket’.

I knew I was wrong and nodded and said yeah, ok, but I pointed at the much larger sign below that said local traffic, just trying to justify my stupidity. The cop kind of studied the two signs, puts his hand on my shoulder and says, ‘no ticket’.

I ask the cop about Radisson, he doesn’t know but stops a cabby and asks him. The cabby points in the direction I had tried to go, then indicates a giant loop to get there. I ask the cop if he’s staying near there and he indicates yes, so I convey I’ll leave my bike and walk to see where it is. He’s agreeable and helps me park the bike.

Going down wrong way streets and thru walkways I locate the hotel in minutes, and let mi amigos know I’ll try and sneak Wee over.

When I get back the cop is sitting near Wee texting on his phone, and continues to hang around, so I figure I can’t cheat and take Wee on the short cut, gonna have to take the long route. A mini monsoon has also just passed, roads are soaked, so I decide to wait and things dry up pretty quickly. Still, the cop sticks around.

Thru incredible luck I hit the two main intersections I know are going to be trouble at exactly the right moment. One there is a brief gap in the bumper to bumper traffic, the other some guy has stalled on a major thruway, blocking the lane I need but leaving a small opening I can zoom thru and take the empty lane.

Safe arrival at the hotel was like winning the lottery!

Parked Wee, hit the room and poured a stiff one!

Feb 19-20 pictorial – Cartagena Columbia to Colon Panama

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Reluctantly leaving Colombia and South America and heading off to the Ferry, we were asked to pose for a series of Pics for a Radisson Hotel promotion…Our heads are only slightly swollen! Thank you Sofia and  Michael (hotel consierge’s) for all the help and the beer tasted pretty good as well!

Barry’s Wee gets yet another truck ride to the Ferry terminal, since we were unable to source any parts for it in Cartagena. No clutch and traffic – bad combo! No such things as a lift truck or ramp, we had to lift it in! We wish he had a lighter bike!

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Sitting inside the all important green lines waiting for fumigation. We arrived at noon for  the 7 oclock ferry, and were not fumigated until 4 PM, needless to say I was burned!  as we had to stand watch, in this area of town. I will learn someday that I don’t tan!

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I felt much better after my $35 misting or I mean fumigation????

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Pink flamingoes outside of the ferry terminal

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Inside the terminal, Chaos..armed police, drug dogs, scanners, checks etc..ticket purchase..and customs.

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We were barely on the boat by 7, finally through all the processes bike fumagation, luggage searches, paperwork checks and long custom line ups, and re-purchasing our ferry tickets etc. The ferry left two hours late at 9 pm! 9 hours for this process! I’ll never complain about BC ferries again!

We were wise enough to book a cabin, so a good sleep and all was better in the morning, for our Caribean crossing.

The party animal, a milisecond after hitting the pillow!

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The next day all was beautiful! and all forgotten.

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Through the process we got to meet some fantastic people, Raul, from Venuzuala, who just moved to Panama.  He has been a tremendous help to Barry sourcing his bike parts and selflessly helped 7 of us foreigners through the boder process. Thank you Raul, we hope we can repay somehow in Canada, some day, you will be welcomed!

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On the boat we were interviewed for 45 minutes by a Colombian TV station Telepacifico about our trip. If it airs and we can get a link, well post it.

Along the way, but especially in port, we saw a lot of these Batman butterflies (technical term!) or officially a Urania Swallowtail Moth…thx Jean

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Arriving in Colon Panama

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The fun begins…the ferry arrives at 3 pm instead of the scheduled 1 PM and for some reason, no one seems to be getting off, hallways are jamed with people and luggage…Chaos for most, but not for Ernie!

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Over the last day we have gotten to know Charlie and Cecilia from Singnapore. The have spent 10 months doing what we did in two months, but they added in all eastern SA countries as well. Wow! they plan on 10 more months to make it to Alaska! That is what I call a holiday!

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We met a fellow from France who just bicycled our whole trip and another pair of friends from Italy who take a month each year and gradually work their way around the world by motorbike…

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At one point Ernie did wake up and got down to his knees and prayed some more.

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About 20 workers triped over themselves unloading all of the boats luggage onto the dock using one small ramp. Once completed the unloading of human cargo began. We had to wait until everyone cleared at about 4:30 in order to  go down to our bikes.

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Seems we had to take the same little ramp off the boat as all of the passengers. In order to fit out the door, we had to remove all side luggage, and get our bikes lifted 20 inches up to the ramp…You’d think they would have a ramp for the inside as well? Nah!

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Outside the customs line up lasted until well after dark.

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At customs Ernie began to pray again, but with a strange finger gesture this time!

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We finally cleared customs at 9 PM at nite, 6 hours after the ship docked! More than a little dark out! Our ferry in the background!

image We overnighted in Colon, before heading to Panama city to visit the Canal and HOPEFULLY pick up the badly needed parts for Barry’s Wee! He is going to attempt the trek without a clutch. Maybe Ernie will say a few more prayers tonite for him! Barry needs them!

Barry on blessings and the Wee

Words by Barry!

We stopped just before a road toll booth in Ecuador on our way to Guayaquil. We were melting in the heat and needed water, plus our faith in Zumo has pretty much bottomed out, so we periodically stop and check our location with the printed maps Ernie has wisely brought along.

There’s some guys, appeared to be road workers, who are lingering around just parked about 50yds ahead of us. Looks like their day is just ending, and some take off but a couple wander over and start talking to me.

Their questions, in Spanish, seem to be about the bikes and our trip so I try and explain everything to them. They seem to understand, lots of smiles and nods, but the conversation finally dries up and we shake hands, Bryan & Ernie mostly intent on their maps, and I figure they’ll be leaving.

One of the fellows launches into what I eventually realize must be some kind of blessing, waving his arms and talking loudly, he’s gesturing at the three of us individually and again at the three bikes.

It finally ends and I give him a couple of humble ‘muchas gracias’ and off they go.

Depending on how the future unfolds, I’ll confirm whether this was a blessing or a condemnation.

Bryan -Maybe this is where Ernie began to pray to border Gods, I mean Guards!

When we left the Radisson to catch the Ferry Express to Panama, we figured Wee best go piggyback on a truck because the area would be highly congested and very dificult with no clutch. Not far from the hotel I fount a spot with about a 2ft+ curb, and the truck driver agreed; good spot as we had no ramp.

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He eased his truck back and although a little cockeyed, we said yeah, good enough. He came back to assist with the lift.

Wee was almost there when the truck started to roll away. He’d forgot to leave in gear and obviously hadn’t put on brakes.

We all scrambled to hang onto the truck and Wee, while amigo jumped down and ran to the cab to remedy the situation.

Poor Wee can’t seem to get a break. And we’ve determined that Wee and I have the sole purpose on this trip of being a warning to others!

Bryan – Barry I can safely say the guys prayers and blessing did not work for ya buddy!

Feb 18 Cartanega Colombia

Feb 18 Cartanega Colombia

We have had an almost enjoyable break from the road. We are getting ready to head off to Panama tomorrow, and there is much to do.

Of lowest priority, this time we have been trying to source laundry for our filthy gear and clothing. The hotel had reasonable pricing for a hotel, but we are on the hunt for a bargain. We sourced out a place down the road from the hotel and got a great quote, so we hiked back to the hotel and back with our many pounds of dirty wear. When we get back there the price had quintupled??? Ernie went postal on them, but even with more price breaks and negotiations it was crazy, so we packed up and downsized our laundry wish list and delivered it to our hotel laundry…Welcome to South America or is that good bye South America?

Barry has been trying to source a clutch cable, no luck in Cartegena, but he is told an hour down the road is a bigger city with everything..it turned up dry as well..Sofia our concierge has been invaluable spending much time helping us. In the interim, Barry has tried several imaginative temporary fixes for his clutch problem, with no luck to date.

I think this fix goes back to Barry’s Harley roots, I’ve heard of suicide shifters, but this suicide clutch is simply going to far!

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Finally Sofia contacts Suzuki South America in Bogota and they have the parts, we are now waiting to see if we can have the parts air shipped in time for our departure..we may have to have the bike trucked to the Ferry and perhaps do the repairs on board or once we arrive in Panama.

Our top priority has been arranging to export our selves and bikes. There is a Ferry service, however even Sofia has been having trouble figuring out the steps involved. The phone numbers don’t work and addresses are not a widely used approach in SA she tells us. This explains much about our past hotel fiascos.. So off we went, in a cab, with great directions in Spanish, first to the customs office or “DIAN”, then to the Ferry Express office. We could not imagine how we could have sorted this out ourselves…not that we are stupid, but the process is simply nuts. It is almost unimaginable that a big ferry service would have no accurate information on their web..seems the main office is in Panama and they focus primarily in one way business to Cartagena. The little extra we are paying to stay in luxury is paying huge dividends with Sofia’s help.

At the DIAN office, we are issued visitor dog tags (these were also required entering Argentina) Ernie begins to show his religious side, kneeling and begging for them to let him out of Columbia.

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He also practiced this ritual on entry to Colombia, praying at a little slot on a blackened wall at the border station.

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The DIAN officer tells us we need 2 photocopies of everything and hands out one blank form for the three of us, which also 2 requires copies…..we ask if we can have three, so we don’t have to make copies of a blank form, fill it out them make more copies…this does not make sense to him, so off we go to a private business down the road photocopy a blank form, fill it out, then photocopy some more. Even the photocopy shop had blackened windows with a small slot? What’s up with that?

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Back to the DIAN security, new dog tags issued, inside they staple our documents, stamp, keep a copy and away we go.

We now believe that we have the paperwork needed so we head off to the Ferry express office, basically being told we will have to look for it with a big white fence? Do you know how many of those there are here? When we arrive, thanks to our driver, the compound with a white fence, the main signage having nothing to to do with Ferries, we are greeted by a security guard who challenges us a bit, or so it seemed on our business here. Our driver again helps out and the gate is unlocked!

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How these places do any business is beyond us??? Notice the great signage and welcoming entrance…

Inside we are luckily greeted by a delightful young girl who can speak English…a few $’s later for paperwork, we are off and told we are ready for the next step.

Tomorrow, luggage inspection and bike fumigation….We can hardly wait…

A couple of past pics…..

Many many personalized TUK TUKS! We tried riding in one for kicks, but we barely fit and in the heat with our gear, closterphobia set in pretty quick.

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Someones idea of a joke!

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Another day in the life of a Suzuki aka Wee…

Words by Ernie;

There is a saying in the biking world or specifically the harley world, that “ it is not the destination, it is the journey “ and so it is, except when you ride with a Suzuki rider, then this slogan no longer applies, instead it should be, it is the “ adventure “ and today was no exception. !!!!!

Today was supposed to be a quiet day as we are checked into our hotel for 3 more days as we try to find out about our ferry ride from Cartagena Columbia to Panama, and what should normally be a no brainer, is turning out to be a bit of a nightmare . So Bryan had designated this task to Barry while Bryan worked on the blog all day and i worked on updating video clips to put them together to make it easer for you to look at, and all was fine, we were all doing our respective jobs, however Barry was legitimately running into issues trying to find out where this so called ferry was, the phone numbers were not in service, googling them turned up nothing, and it was getting a little bizarre but this sort of thing we have run into many times on different matters here in south america, it is truly amazing how this country functions sometimes especially with the lack of using technology the way it is supposed to be used or how we use it and the rest of the world for that matter, anyway, we finally went to the hotel concierge and she was super helpful, she ran into the same problems that we were so she kept working on it and came up with a location for us to go to and sent Barry and I on our merry way.

Well we finally found our spot and just started to laugh, because it was an internet shop, yes this is for a major ferry terminal booking, and it was located in an internet shop, so we went in and there was about dozen computer stations and no visible signs of any ferry terminal information finally the clerk pointed down the aisle to the last station so away we went and there was this older gentlemen that did not speak a world of english and all we managed to get out of him was his name and cell number so that we can get the hotel gal to call him tomorrow to answer our questions as to where this ferry is located , time it leaves, import/ export bike information, customs, etc and all the stuff that we or anyone needs to know, so here is hoping tomorrow works out better for us :):)

So this is where Suzuki ( or wee ) as we have nick named her, starts to perform once again.Barry and i leave in rush hour traffic, yes rush hour traffic as delays encountered finding this ferry terminal office, and on our way back to hotel, we go thru a police stop and check point and for whatever reason, they signal us over, no big deal, or at least we thought. Once approached by the police we explained, no espanol, and they were all smiles and said no problem, go ahead and leave, well that sounds pretty simple doesn’t it ??? Wrong !!!

As Barry pulled over in a bit of a hurry, he broke his clutch cable, so there we were stuck !! The police were super nice and they felt bad that barry broke his cable, so they immediately jumped in and tried to help fix it. With a broken cable, there is no fixing this, so it was going to be a band aid solution at best and voila, it was. They managed to locate a 3 inch nail on the road, and brought it over adn then worked very diligently at tying the nail into the broken clutch cable so that Barry could pull the nail to simulate a clutch lever and in thinking that would help, however you need the mechanical leverage offered by a clutch lever to do this job and you were never going to pull that cable hard enough with your hands to disengage the cloth, but these guys were so intent on helping out that we did not want to interrupt them, so bubble gum it together they did !!! :):)

So Reno’s now complete it was time to try it out and sure enough that did not work, after many attempts, so plan B, I had to push the Wee with Barry on it down the road, now this is rush hour traffic, so the cops stopped all the 3 lanes of traffic for me to do this, first attempt failed, so we did it again, 100 yards later in blistering heat, it jump starts so Barry is off like a jack rabbit and there i am running back to my bike while the cops are still holding traffic up for us, so i jump on my bike and in attempt to try to catch up to Barry as we had no head set communicationat this point, i gave it a little to much throtte and up she came, a fabulous wheelie if i do say so myself, just about lost it on that manoeuvre, anywasy now i am chasing Barry down the road and the cops let the traffic go, and hotel bound we are.

Now this may sound simple enough but for Barry, this was not the case, because we are in rush hour traffic and red lights and he has to try to anticipate all this ahead of getting there. So first intersection he could not negotiate this any further and traffic was stopped, so he headed off the curb, onto the sidewalk, down into a field, and i am sitting there watching and wondering what he is going to do now. Well Barry thought it was a great ideea at the time, to jsut keep riding around the field until the light turns green then run back over the curb to run the light, except he noticed this was a special field , with anchors in it, and clearly not somewhere he should be with his bike so he heads for another sidewalk and gone. Not, normally this may not be a problem,except i have no idea where he is going or why, so now i am in hot pursuit becasue we are in a very big town and are struggling to find our way back to ur hotel and we cannot get separated and barry is off and gone, me in hot pursuit again :):)

Well we finally hooked up again, a couple of stalls later , barry had to push his bike thru a major intersection, then tried starting his bike, and this time he was running alongside it running, then jumped on and promptly put it into first gear so he could get going then managed to shift into second gear and off we go, dodging traffic, even cutting taxis off and that is a no no for sure but we had no choice, the Wee was running and barry was absolutely dripping in sweat and the road back to the hotel ws calling us !!!!

What seemded like an hour or more, we finally arrived at our hotel adn strolled right into the underground aprking and pulled up to our parking spot , Barry first, and then the helmets came off, and once again, we started to laugh, and laugh we did. How or why does this alwasy happen to us ?? After we stopped laughing , i said, are you going to tell our fearless leader or do I ?? you see Brayn, is a bit of a sicko, he loves to take pitures of Barry every time his poor bike has any issues, he is right there getting that kodak moment to be able to post on the blog to share with you , so off we went, tail between our legs to tell Bryan to get his camera for his moment in time:):)

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And so it is, riding with a Suzuki, you just never know what is around the corner awaiting you 🙂 every day is full of surprises and truly is never boring , but then we would not have it any other way would we guys ??? :):):)

Another day in paradise 🙂 BTW compare this place for $173 US to the place not long ago, where body condoms were needed for $150…sometimes it just does not make sense, but you learn to be patient!

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Thanks for the laughs Barry, it makes my day 🙂
ps
Pam , if you wonder why Barry may have lost some weight, maybe this will shed some light on that for you 🙂

Feb 15 Sincelejo to Cartagena Colombia

Feb 15 Sincelejo to Cartagena Colombia

The day by Barry.
We took our time getting out of Sincilejo, very nice hotel and restaurant, and we only had three hours riding into Cartagena.

The road was not an awesome ride for a change, near sea level the whole time, pretty straight, and boring actually. There were nice sections where trees completely covered the road and it was like driving in a tunnel. About the only thing to keep us awake was the world class potholes that hid in the shadows of the trees.

Bryan, upfront, hit one and thankfully, through the Sena headset, Ernie and I heard his expletive scream. As I passed the crater, it occurred to me the Wee suspension likely wouldn’t have survived a hit like that!

When we stopped to re-fuel we were surprised by an armed guard at the station that must have had an 8 guage shotgum by the looks of the gun and shells.

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Also a cute little bird decided to watch and sing to us as we fueled up.

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We got into Cartagena just past noon, but once again Zumo failed us in finding lodging. Lots of leads but when we arrived, no sign there was ever a hotel there, instead more office buildings. We did locate a Hostel from the lonely planet, but it was not to our liking even though it was in the funky old town district. No secure parking, bunk beds, 6 to a cramped room.

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After Enie took us through a pedestrian park again to beat the one way street dilema, we pulled up in on a sidewalk area to regroup, and a fellow in front of a bank ATM asked what we were looking for, in very good English? We said a Holiday Inn or the Radisson. He pointed this way then that and could see we were confused, so he walks over to the armed guard at the ATM and talks to him in Spanish. Comes back and says follow this guy, he’ll lead you there.

We’re kind of confused, but we are cooking in the heat and say yeah let’s go. The guard had a little moto and off we went. Down little lanes and whipping between cars, he delivered us to the Radisson in about 10 minutes. Ernie gave him the equivalent of about $10US and off he went.

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Don’t know if this is standard practice for security guards in Columbia, but we ain’t complaining, our luck in finding great helpful people continues.

Once into our room Ernie made some quip about his party animal travelling partners snoring…Not sure about that part!

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Feb 14 Yarumal to Sincelejo Colombia

Feb 14 Yarumal to Sincelejo Colombia

The day by Barry
When we were in Cuzco, we all had our riding suits cleaned, but they’ve gotten pretty filthy since, especially mine what with Wee leaking oil. Felt guilty getting on our super clean bikes this morning!

We headed out to a cloudy morning, but it looked as though it might clear. The road took us up from about 2000m to over 2400m then started to drop. At 2100m we hit a thick fog, and a line up of vehicles. You could only see a couple of vehicles ahead and even the crazy drivers down here were not trying to pass.

We coasted down the hill at 5 – 10kph all the way to 700m before we needed to start our engines for a small rise, Ernie’s battery had died because we kept our lights and flashers going the whole way. We had to scramble to get Ernie off the road, then his trusty Jumpstart saved the day.

Back in the line up of vehicles we continued to drop, at a snails pace in the fog, til we got under 200m. 2 hours and 20 k later, we pulled off at a restaurant/fruit stand to strip our gear down as the temperature now was up near 30, and the fog had cleared. We lingered around long enough that the traffic cleared, and once we took off it was pretty well clear sailing. The road remained fairly low and fairly straight so nothing of note for a change, except we finally managed to rack up some k’s.

Our target town for the day didn’t look too appealing, so we rode on 50k more to Sincelejo. After crisscrossing downtown several times on narrow congested streets, we decided to move out to the fringes to look for lodging. As we parked at a nice looking place, Nancy from Toronto messaged Bryan the Boston hotel was available, she must have been watching our trackers and figured out we were doing our usual nightly dance looking for hotels. Ernie had already gone into the hotel we’d parked at but just in case it didn’t pan out, Bryan and I Zumo’d the Boston, it was right next door! Ernie got us into the Malibu, a great high end hotel for a reasonable price as it was still under construction, but thanks for the help Nancy, and also thanks to Bryans sister Jenny, she too assists us in the daily search for lodging, no easy task as we seldom know where we might end up.

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Tomorrow we slide into Cartagena and try to set ourselves up for a ferry ride around the Darien Gap and into Panama. Our home base coordinator, Mark Foan, has again came thru for us, getting all the info for what we’ve been told is a hugely convoluted and 3 day event of getting cleared from Columbia, booked on the ferry, and cleared to enter Panama. Our patients are going to be tested.
Thanks for the help Mark

Feb 13 Riosucio to Yarumal Colombia – via Medellin

Feb 13 Riosucio to Yarumal Colombia – via Medellin

I awoke in the morning to this email:

bryan pregunte por la cafeteria las palmas alla nos vemos a las 7y30 esta cafeteria queda en la galeria recuerde se llama cafeteria las palmas
Great news!

I jumped on my bike and made if to Anserma on time, however had to stop several times to get directions to the cafeteria, this proved interesting, no one could understand when I’d ask for
“cafeteria las palmas” its all in the accent. I stopped at one gas station, where the attendant spent the time to teach me how to say it properly…from the on I just showed the email on my phone and eventually was pointeed in the right direction. I arrived to the town square a little late where I was greeted as I was driving in with BRYAN! Music to my ears….

I had coffee with Adrianna and her dad while waiting for her husband who had my documents. No English but communication was universal and fun. They told me how they found the contents spread on the ground, but they did retrieve the most vital of what I needed…all is good! Thank you Adrianna..(forgot to get a picture…damn it!)

The ride was interesting, mostly men on road bicycle, riding this incredible stretch of mountainous road, few transports, it was a beautiful ride and this time I stopped to take picutres.

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The rest of the day by Barry:
We got away late from Riosuico, as Bryan had to double back 40k to recover his wallet. Ernie stayed behind to adjust his suspension, and I stayed behind to find a Suzuki dealer.
The original plan was to leave really early and try to clear Medellin before rush hour, turns out later in the day wasn’t bad.

After Medellin we got partially lost because of a new highway, but once we figured that out we started flying on another awesome twisty climbing road. Suddenly all traffic was stopped. We cheated our way up to the front, which is something we’ve learned from the locals, and came upon a terrible accident. Looked like a young girl on a Moto had gotten herself into a head on with a semi, so sad. We sat behind yellow ribbons for nearly 2 hours while the police did there investigation.

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Once we got moving another, sorry to keep repeating myself, awesome ride. Colombia is even more stunning then Ecuador. We climbed near 3,000m then back down.
Because of our delay we didn’t make Caucasia?, but found ourselves in the very old mountainside city of Yarumal, what a great find.
We traveled to the main square and parked, looking for a hotel Jenny had recommended.
A young fellow started yapping at Ernie that we weren’t to park where we parked and had to move to the right, Ernie kept saying Gran Hotel but the guy kept motioning right; Ernie interpreted this as hotel to the right, I figured he just wanted to get rid of us. We rode towards where he had said and within a couple of blocks of slow traffic a young guy who looked familiar yelled to me from the sidewalk ‘this is the garage and you’ve just passed the hotel’, I was at the rear. I conveyed ok, me amigos ahead I’ll let them know.
Bryan and Ernie had stopped so I rode ahead. Ernie was right at an intersection, so I passed him and went to Bryan and said its a block back. Immediately Ernie radioed some familiar guy had showed up and was saying we needed to double back. OK, we’re onto something here, because of one way streets we gotta go a long ways to get back but off we go.
Ernie and I now get separated from Bryan by a slow moving tanker truck. Bryan, calling for us to catch up because he doesn’t know what he’s looking for suddenly radios ‘hey there’s a kid here trying to get me to follow him’!
This young guy, who we thought was trying to get rid of us, had likely ran 2 miles of San Francisco style streets to get us to our destination. Bryan followed him and bingo, great garage and hotel.

We even had a guy in the parking garage solicit us for Moto washes, which we badly needed, and the next morning we had sparkling bikes ready to go.

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The hotel was incredible, very nicely appointed, clean, well run, for $10 US a nite each! We pinched ourselves…Thank you Jenny for finding this stuff for us!

Our luck continues!

Feb 12 El Bordo to Riosucio Colombia

Feb 12 El Bordo to Riosucio Colombia

We got away in reasonable time this morning after our cold shower…and nice breakfast. On that note we have had one deep disappointment about Colombia, the coffee sucks! We were expecting rich, full bodied.full cups of coffee to die for. We have had half cups of instant coffee, see more Malita or nescafe coffee than we care for…not one good, let alone great cup of coffee! Weird!

It rained hard overnite, but we are greeted to sunny skies in the morning, our luck continues. We spent most of day at high altitude in cool weather.

We passed through the city of Cali and spotted some golden arches, we just had to stop! Funny the feeling of the know, no surprises, no trouble communicating just simple know food, it was great!
Inside we met a great gentelman by the name of Juan Manuel Mejia Henao, who snapped our picture on his camera and sent it to us! Thank you!

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Note the dirty tail end of Barry’s Wee  image

At the risk of yet again repeating myself, this was indeed one of the most stunning days we have had in terms of dramatic scenery, roads and beautiful mountain side homes. Not oppulent but the colorful, well appointed spanish style you’d like to sit on the ba;cony drink good coffee or your favorite beverage and admire the stunning view for ever…I could see myself trying to come back here and rent a place some day if such availability existed. The small quaint surrounding towns would provide the unltimate in experience in unwinding.

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Again, pressed a bit for time, we dont stop to take enough pictures, at one point I was ahead a bit, so pulled over and rushed the camera out a couple of shots, before Ernie and Barry caught up, but had to rush before all the vehicles we just passed caught up.
Away we go again (this part becomes significant)

Getting to the steep hillside town of Riosucio we find it does not exist on the GPS, so Jenny’s hard woork on hotels yielded one non existant and one closed…so off to the Centro area, which in a hilly city is easy to find with its usual large church and community square, we find great accomodation.

Outside, we are the entertainment for a large collection of old men with nothing to do.

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Shortly after settling in, I come to the realization that my wallet is gone. Not a good feeling. I had my wallet at McDonalds, so do the double check everywhere, but it is indeed gone. You may recall we as a group have already had several of our cards compromised, so we are low, my wallet had three functional cards along with drivers license, social and medical cards, small amount of cash and personal items. Merde!

Ernie, was working through the logistics with me and came to the conclusion that it must have flipped out of my tank bag when I rushed to take the roadside shots. The trip back was about and hour according to google…and that is hoping it might still be there? Likelihood unknown, do I spend the two hours the next morning or write it off and get Karen to renew and bring all to Costa Rica?

Ernie was just mentioning, what if a good samaritan…while I was checking my emails..when as our luck would have it, this email pops up:

from: Nvbhv Bg Gx
Perdida de documentos por favor llamar al numero 3128409269

hola soy adriana montoya tenemos sus documentos xfavor llamar al 3128409269 en Anserma Caldas

I tried emailing her with no response, except to receive a few other similar emails, she was clearly trying hard to contact me, great news. I tried calling her, however woke her up and she spoke no english, and she really could not understand me inspite of my best efforts, I don’t blame her.

I went to bed not sure what to do, or how to communicate a meeting place less than an hour away, not a great feeling, but at least I knew my cards were not being highjacked and I could always get help to get her to mail it to me later. Again Ada from Peru Moto tours jumped and offered to try to help connect the dots….Thank you once again Ada!

I decided there was nothing to do tonite but sleep on it, it is always clearer in the morning!

Words from Ernie – thoughts on trip to date.

Words from Ernie, along with a video for entertainment;

Well so far, we are 19,180 kms under our belts and over 23,000 views on the blog site, unreal !!!!

Well it looks like you are stuck with me today as our fearless leader needs a night off from this tireless job . You see Bryan is not only our fearless leader , he is also the one that spends countless hours updating the blog all the time to keep our family , friends and followers ( the 3 f’s ) up to date with our activities and day to day encounters and for that he deserves a huge thank you because when Barry and I head off to bed, Bryan stays up for another hour or two each night to keep you all posted, so Bryan, as much as we tease you, thank you for all your time and efforts on this as we all appreciate it so much. For our family and friends, it allows us to show you what we are seeing and experiencing, and to our followers, adventure riders from around the world, it helps give them some insight as to what they might expect upon their arrival for their big trek. You see, with the blog site, it gives you access to a ton of information such as number of hits, views per visitor, and it also give a whole lot of stats such as where are all the followers coming from and it tells how many from each country etc so quite interesting, and i think we are at 11 different countries so a lot of fellow adventure riders watching too , and so this is where some of my blog comments are headed today

You see, what we show you is all the good stuff from down here, all the beautiful scenery, fabulous tourist things etc so in our photos and video clips, you are more or less seeing the best of the best to give you the highlights, but in reality, there is always the good, the bad and the ugly, and that is where reality sets in. The good is all the beautiful people down here and all the scenery that we show you , the bad part is the 5 % of the drivers down here that should be taken out and shot for how they drive and endanger everyones lives on the road, and trust me, this is a very real as you see all the roadside crosses and wonder why. They have absolutely no regard for passing on double solid lines and on blind corners, they do it all the time and i am talking about buses and semis alike, they are bizarre, and then there is the ugly, and that is all the garbage, filth, poverty and pollution that we see on the back of our bikes as we go to the places that tourists do not go to and that is is really quite bizarre too. For our fellow adventure riders, you need to prepare yourselves for all of this as this is what you will see and experience.

For Bryan, not only does he keep the blog up to date, he is more technical than Barry and i together, so he has uploaded all the maps necessary onto our gps systems for us to navigate around here as mapping down here is incredibly poor to say the least, so because of this, Bryan also has to lead each day when we are on the road and this to, is a tiring task, because there are so many beautiful roads that are loaded with tons of twists and turns, that we love so much, but as the leader, you are the front man, and when oncoming traffic is pulling out to pass on double solid lines and on blind corners, that makes his job even more stressful as he is the guy upfront so he has to deal with these bizarre drivers more so than Barry and i, so at the end of each day, he can be quite tired and for good reason, so again Bryan, thank you so much for what you have done for us and continue to do.

When we speak of garbage, it is absolutely disgusting to the conditions that some of these people live and after Argentina Peru, Chile and Bolivia, we were starting to think that was the way all south america was going to be, and wow did we get a big surprise . When we crossed the borders into Ecuador, it was such a drastic change , that you could see it immediately The people and or government here obviously have a different take on life and have pride in their country, as you will not see a single piece of garbage in this country anywhere, it is absolutely spectacular and clean. what a refreshing change from what we have been seeing.

So today, we crossed the border from Ecuador to Colombia, and let me say to all adventure riders, you can never quite prepare yourself for all of the border crossings down here, they are so far behind in the real world that it is truly is a real test of patience, and man do you need a lot of that. There is no such thing as common sense that applies here !

You can easily spend 2 or more hours at each crossing just getting sent from one person to another and going around in circles and getting no where. As an example , today as we crossed, there is a 1/4 mile gap between buildings and you get to one person and they say you need a stamp over there to proceed so you walk back a 1/4 mile to get that stamp, then they say , no, you need a piece of paper first so you walk back 1/4 mile go to get that, then they say no, you need to pay your reciprocity fee first , so they send you to another place, then they say, you need to get photocopying done, and about here you are ready to loose it on someone. Here is a border crossing,and someone sitting at a desk, telling you that you need to go to find some corner store to get copies made of your license etc to bring back to them,???? They don’t even have a copier at their border crossings to take copies of whatever they need, they send you on a mission to find a copier place !!!! I wont really tell you what we were saying or thinking at this point in time, but lets just say that these border crossings down here are an absolute joke and a real test for patience so you had better adjust to this before coming down here otherwise you wont be getting in and out of any of these countries.

As an example, when we entered Peru, you have to register your bike into each country so they know that you aren’t leaving it behind somehow, so they fill in paperwork accordingly, so when we entered Peru, we had a real winner of a lady taking care of us, who had attitude like you would not believe, well she filled in Barry and Bryan’s paperwork ok, but she screwed mine up so when we went to leave Peru, it showed that my bike was from Columbia not Canada, so the guy tells me i cannot leave Peru until this gets fixed.!!!!!!!!!!!!

Fortunately , he was a very nice guy and went out of his way to help me. It appears that this lady said my bike was from columbia instead of canada or else she forgot to put British Columbia in there, who knows, she was such a classic there was no talking to her, so hard to say why she made that mistake, but anyways after much delay, In the end, this guy finally got thru to someone to correct this mistake for me, otherwise i would still be there . So be prepared for this stuff as it can and will happen !!!! Once we entered columbia, anther great surprise, the cleanliness of this country is very similar to Ecuador, and thepeople are so friendly and helpful they just cannot do enough for you , such a wonderful environment

We are still amazed that everywhere we go, does not matter if for gas, driving in town, just stopping to look at the scenery, how many people come over to talk to us, wave to us on the highway, and all wanting to take constant pictures of us, talk to us, get pictures on our bike, and this has been constant throughout all of south america, absolutely everywhere, I don’t think we could count the number of times that we have had our pictures taken, so different from back home. ironically there are thousands of bikes down here, it is their means of transportation , however they are all small bikes as in 125 ‘ so not big bikes or adventures bikes like ours and I guess that is the mystery to them. The other funny part is that they all permission just to “ take “ a picture, not one of them ever just came up and took a picture like we would do back at home, they are so courteous and respectful,, that they actually ask first!!

Well that is about it for today, Bryan will have lots more to say, so for now, i have to get working on some videos to show you . watch for one called “ road side viewings “ as i am trying to put together a series of a bunch of videos of vehicles that we see gong down the road, you will hardly believe what you will see in this, from Live Llamas in a taxi, live sheep on a roof top, crazy truck loads, wheels and tires just sitting on cars as they drive down the road, peaople sitting in back of open flat deck trailes and trucks, large large trucks, kids on bikes hitchin rides from transports…These linked videos, a sampling of what I managed to capture…

http://youtu.be/9NMIwlRwP5w

Feb 11 Otalvo Ecuador to El Bordo Colombia

Feb 11 Otalvo Ecuador to El Bordo Colombia

The agriculture and prosperity in Colombia seem similar to Ecuador however the Andes have become much more dramatic in Columbia..the ride is again extreme twisties, average expected speed is 50K/hr, the cliffside road with dramatic drop offs..and hillside farming offer the complete package…once again we think that now we have seen the absolute best motorcycle roads! Take the time to examine the detailed arial view on our map of the Pan-American, we have just travelled. It is not for the faint of heart, and I found myself fighting vertigo on corners with no shoulders and either a tiny guardrail or none at all, I am not sure which would be better! The weather remains unexpectedly cool at around 15-17 degrees, of course until we until we drop in elevation and the temp climbs again to low 30’s. Lots of changing of layers and clothes goes on…luckily still little more than a quick sprinkle of rain, unheard of luck!

The tree canopies cover roads from both sides – we are driving through amazing tunnels of greenery. Often, the trees are covered with soft purple flowers covering the road from both sides, carved out perfectly by the passing transport trucks. Other times the trees are covered in bright yellow flowers. Stunning and beautiful…I did not stop to take pictures, how stupid was that. I guess the adrenaline from the roads, passing 50 trucks on tight corners and slow going in towns and through construction which was hampering our expected progress got in the way. This scenery has been bar none the best we have seen..all of us fully agree on this. (I know we have said this before!)

Unlike Ecuador, the crazy slow posted speed limits (max 80 and min 10 k/hr) are ignored by all. People pass police, in the city, double lines, left or right side, police pass as well. In spite of posted limit in the city of 30 K we see people speed by police passing on double lines at 70,

Drivers here are indeed better than other countries we have encountered, perhaps equal to Argentina, with the odd crazy person in the mountain, frustrated and tired of following transport trucks with no passing lanes anywhere. The truck traffic on these twisty mountain roads amazes us, clearly there is little rail infrastructure to take the transport pressure off the roads.

A couple of noticeable differences. The police presence was not as dramatic, In the other countries, most of the many toll booths would have police stopping most people exiting the tolls…. as well as entering and leaving towns. Luckily we got a pass on all of these. Here they have a presence in most towns but are not pulling many over. One other noticeable difference is the number of heavily armed Army personnel along the road and set up with sandbags and armored vehicles on both sides of any sizable bridge. I do get called to a screetching halt coming around one corner by army personnel, once pulled over I get drilled with friendly question after question in Spanish, only to be met by their deepest dissapointment that I could not converse adequately, but oogling over th bikes, big smiles, handshakes, thumbs up and aay we go again. This was real communication! The Army presence was creepy at first, but them it seems most of them give us a huge thumbs up as we drove by, nearly a solute type of thumbs up, very very cool!

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Barry continues to lead on the passes at construction or accident sites, often enabling us to get by miles and miles of backed up transports, this easily shaves hours off of our time, on steep hills and tight corners they are often crawling. Fortunately this makes passing them with short bursts a lot easier. Who is this man that started the trip ever so cautious??? Ernie and i are getting our kicks out of this new aggressive beast!

This day we end at a lovely Campestre – (country setting hotelria) we had our own rooms, building, a pool, a great dinner (choice of trout, chicken or beef) served to us on our patio, breakfast, beautiful sunset, fireflies, lovely people, especially Andrea all for about $27 US each!

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Andrea working very hard with us to selct our dinner, while practicing English and teaching us Spanish, she was such a bubbly sweetie!

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One slight downside to this idealistic picture – no shower head – a 1/2 pvc pipe, wide open pipe and no hot water, God that was one nasty wake up!

Feb 10 Guayaquil Ecuador to Otavalo Ecuador

Feb 10 Guayaquil Ecuador to Otavalo Ecuador

Today we leave expect a long straightish and hot drive up the Pan-American, as we try to quickly knock off the miles to Cartagena – nothing could have been further from reality!

We pulled out of Guayaquil about 7:30 this morning, hoping to beat the traffic and the heat on our way to Quito. It was already 26 degrees and really humid. We had our mesh suits on and cooling vests ready for later when we knew it would really be cooking.

We quickly find ourselves near the equator but have climbed to about 13000 ft, it is now 13 degrees C, we are cold, but Tight Twisties kept our blood flowing…Beautiful Agricultural land up hillsides, mainly looked after without the aid of any machinery, dramatic drop offs on thee roadsides, simply stunning scenery. We have said a few times before that the riding could not be better anywhere in the world, after these roads we were pinching ourselves…

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As the day went on we dropped back to hot sweaty wheather, then rose up again to colder climates. It was difficult keeping comfortable. But that was the only disappointment, the roads and terrain are a bikers dream. Ecuador is likely to become a top pick for us as a destination. Very friendly people and very clean environment. The trash issues we experienced everywhere else are gone, there’s a sense Ecuadorians take a great deal of pride in their surroundings.

Ecuador is a special place, drivers are better, down to 10% of them being crazy, the trick is knowing which ones fit into the 10%. The people are great, gas is about 50 cents a liter, we should be spending more time, enjoying more, taking more pics, We will have to come back as there is much to see and enjoy here.

However, the going is slow, many small towns along the way and the corner speed limits had to been established by some politician who could not drive! Very soon, we are taking our chances and driving as these roads should be driven!

Ernie Hamming it up at an outdoor urinal

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At various stops we met many new people, all eager to ask where we’ve been and where we’re going. Most wanted to take pictures; you bet go ahead; and we handed out a lot of cards.

Our only real disappointment, in our haste and enjoyment of the road and driving, we somehow crossed the equator without knowing it. We intended getting pictures there, assuming it would be well marked. Despite being on a major North/South highway, we didn’t see it.

We arrive into the very old world town of Otavalo and stumble onto a beautiful Hostel while trying to find jenny’s recommends but could not find name or address in the GPS, for the future we will try getting the coordinates -a lesson for the future. The hostel cost us around $12 each and was extreme value in our minds! Ada had also given us a great recommendation for a place, however given our late entry and expected early departure we decided to downscale.

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For dinner, we went out for a lovely pasta dinner at an old world restaurant, with a real wood fire going in the corner, burning Eucalyptus wood ever so slowly, the ambiance and aroma was out of this world!

People we meet along the way! – Words by Barry!

Time for me to go back and remember the people we’ve met.

I ended last time with German, who continues to stay in touch with us. Hope he’s enjoying our continuing story as much as we enjoyed meeting him.

Bernie & Lydia in Sillustani, they spoke zero English, and our Spanish very limited, somehow we spent an entire evening together on stools, beneath the stars, laughing and having a fabulous evening, hard to believe.

The next day, back in Puno, the gentleman with the three young kids who came up and asked about pictures with the motos, I wondered why the little tyke was so standoffish with me? Eventually the dad told me that from a distance the little guy thought I was Senor Ho Ho, and couldn’t understand why I had a Moto instead of a sleigh! Eventually all three of the kids sat on Ernie’s machine and acted like hotrod racers while dad took pictures.

Ada and Alex in Cuzco, nicest people in all of South America. Ada is Canadian and familiar with the B.C. Interior, so hope we can host them one day, maybe get Alex out on a snowmobile, put some real power between his legs!

Little Gloria who I met outside the Peru Rail office in Armas Square. She was selling little dried out gourds that were nicely decorated. I said no, I’m on a Moto but she wanted to talk with me in English. Asked about my family and told me about hers, all the while pulling little gourds out of her pack and looking over her shoulder. She obviously had some kind of handler who she didn’t want thinking she was lingering. She wrote down her name and wanted me to look her up on the computer, and I gave her one of our cards. I lost her name, so I won’t be able to reach her, but hope she enjoys our Blog and maybe leaves a comment.

The very nice lady, I’ve forgotten her name, who guided us at saqsayhumann. She was a wealth of knowledge, and we thought her 2 hours for $40 was a great deal, likewise with Lucio at Machu Picchu.

In northern Peru we stopped at s shopping mall because it looked like it had a nice restaurant. We parked up close and while we sat inside we watched as throngs of people gathered around the bikes. As Bryan tried to take pictures from inside, someone outside noticed and gestured if it would be OK to do there own pictures? Bryan gave the thumbs up, and they were climbing on and snapping away. We saw one group leave then return later, obviously they’d gone for a camera and returned to get pics. As we went to leave several ladies drove up in a taxi, cameras out, asking the cabbies to get their shots with us and the bikes.

We continue to get positive waves and thumbs up from people everywhere we go. Cars, trucks, taxis and even the police, friendly waves, honks, lights flashing; today we got stopped at two checkpoints, fairly unusual, but mostly all they want to do is ask about our trip and the bikes. Bryan and I finally broke away from one checkpoint today, but then had to wait for Ernie because his guy was asking all about the trip, the bikes and whether Ernie had ever rode Route 66 in the US!

At our border crossing today into Ecuador, we met by far the friendliest bunch of border agents; except the sidewalk crossing guard who went ballistic if you didn’t stay in the lines; too bad their stymied by a process that is just idiotic. You park, then walk a block one way, find a little store that will copy your newly stamped documents, walk two blocks another direction, find a little mail slot opening in darkened windows and try to communicate with someone you can’t see in a foreign language; it is so ridiculous you really have to wonder how they came up with this process? Why would you want to frustrate people who are only going to help your economy? It simply makes no sense. On the plus side, everybody we met was very pleasant and friendly. Ernie even baited the crossing guard by jaywalking just before we left; seems he had tired of us by then because he never said a word.

Andrea, the young girl at our Hotel Campera in a place none of us can remember. We were all taken with what a sweet girl she was and how much fun we had trying to communicate.

Writing this I realize I have to do this more often, our experiences become a blur if left to long.

So many great experiences but I fear many were missed.

 

Feb 9, Tumbes Peru to Guayaquil Ecuador

Feb 9, Tumbes Peru to Guayaquil Ecuador

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We packed up today, but not so early, we decided to smell the roses and enjoy our resort in the morning and its deluxe buffet breakfast at the ocean side restaurant. It was worth it, the meal was by absolute far the best breakfast we have enjoyed, and did we. Bellies full, sad to leave, but on the road by 9:30 (maybe I’m rubbing off on Ernie and Barry), heading for the Ecuador border. The desert/rice field/police check/toll booth/speed bump combs continued to the Ecuador border.

OK here is an unusually long but (shorter than the real thing) yet accurate description of our border crossing today.

As we drove into the border we were greeted by nice buildings, extremely pleasant border guards and a general sense of calm. Directed to park (as usual) we were directed to the first building in what is always a multi step process (usually 1 building but 5 steps). The folks inside the building we were directed to, by two different officials, informed us that we were in the wrong place and sent us to another building, we went to the first station, then sent outside to fill our forms (same info at least three times on the same sheet) then onto the second station, who then directed us to the third across the way.

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We noted the border wall sized motto “modern, secure, transparent and efficient”.

Once there, they informed us that we were in the wrong place and we were taken personally over to a private business for photocopies ($1 US for three sheets) and told to go to another building (the very first) then come back. When at the original stop, we were sent to yet another building as we apparently had yet to get exit permits for our Motorbikes from Peru. There Ernie was told his bike had not been registered in Peru so he could not exit, Barry and I were again sent back to the very first building we were sent to. We proceeded while Ernie sorted our his issues.

Along the way between buildings I was twice told by a guard even though all was quiet and calm, no traffic, to not cross between buildings at a straight shot, but to take the cross walks which of course were the very longest way. (more internal chuckles and memories of the advice on our first day, “smile, be patient, these things take time”)

The window we were guided to had a blacked out covering so we could not see inside, all there was to deal with was a letter slot size opening (similar to that on a normal door) located at mid chest level. On either sides of us were trucks moving through the border and we head a faint Spanish voice on the other end, Barry and I burst out laughing, we could not believe it! It would have made a good Candid Camera scene!

I leaned down and tried to explain how I could not hear, still chuckling, eventually the guy inside, who was trying quite hard, gave up and came outside to invited us inside the black hole. It went well from there. Ernie’s bike had apparently had been registered in or coming from Columbia and not as having come from British Columbia….inspite of our vigilance on this stuff, so much is out of our control..The extremely helpful people at the border sorted it out and before to long (South American Style), pictures taken of our bikes (a first) we were on our way. What’s an hour or two when on vacation.

It amazed us at how many workers were helpful yet mis-informed of the process as welll as how idiotic the whole process is. We will never ever complain again about a CDN / US border crossing!

(sorry for the long detail here, just amazed us that inspite of not many people crossing the border, modern everything, super polite helpful border staff (a first), it was ironic the amount of disorder)

On with the day;
Just before crossing the border we met up with a couple riders from Venezuela, who saw us getting fuel and pulled in to chat. They told us of the driving laws in Ecuador, over 135 K and jail for 3 days. As well they warned us that when speed are reduced for corners (which every biker ignores) and that there are many radar traps on corners, not our kinda place.

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Immediately upon entering Ecuador, we were struck by the greenery, the land fertility, the high quality roadways, apparent wealth (relative that is) and overall cleanliness. The drivers more civilized (again relative) and basically amazed again at the sudden change. It reminded us of the differences between Bolivia to Peru

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For the first time we were picked out of a crowd by a police check point,, no idea why, asked for our licenses…we pretend to not understand anything to not make it easy for a shakedown…ends up all the police crowd around us asking where we are going , are our bikes really 1200 cc’s (sorry Wee) must go fast, where are we going and before long on our way waving goodbye to what could be best friends…too funny

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Along the way, there was much construction with long, long line ups of traffic. Much to the surprise of Ernie and I, Crazy Man Barry, took to the shoulder on the right side and blasted by EM All!. Once over the shock, we quickly followed! Shaved a bunch of time off, great! a little later same thing, fortunately for us, this time the opposing traffic had blocked both oncoming lanes causing mass confusion. The traffic snarl would have lasted hours for sure. We again blasted by it all on the shoulder laughing. I think Ernie’s driving craziness is rubbing off! Way to go Barry, we bought him beers that nite!

Getting into Guayaquil, again late, finding a hotel should have been easy, Jenny (my sister) had sent us multiple options. However, not one that we could find on our GPS again. So the hell with it we are tired and resort to a normal GPS search and see a Ramada and Best Western listed. We head off, only to find office towers and who knows what, certainly no hotels, and yes inspite of great planning efforts, it is “this again”. Finally sitting in the downtown core, Ernie does his usual knocking on doors and voila, a score on first hit.

We settle in for the nite into a nice hotel.

Feb 9 Guayaquil Ecuador

I’ve written a post for today, but did not have time for pictures and it’s late so I’d better proof read it.

However, in discussion amongst the Amigos tonite we realized in order to make the Ferry to Panama in good time to meet the girls in Costa Rica, we have to put on a heavy push to Cartegena Columbia.

The ferry only runs twice a week and we are told it takes three days for arrangements. So once there, we will have down time, while we spend a couple of days, sorting our paperwork and border issues for the crossing and of course updating the blog.

Given our now increasingly shorter days and the heat, it will be a challenge. We will do our utmost to post as we can. If you dont hear from us, know we are thinking about you and we know the same of you.

 

Just a few tidbits in the meantime;

Along the way, we have seen thousands of roadside shrines, most the size of a small dog house, most filled with religeous items, or personal items, sometimes pathways line with thousands of plastic two liter bottles, others in the company of a pack of cigarettes, a bottle or two of wine or beer. This one struck me as one I might want…life size …and a real car guy!

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Hey youve all seen pictures of Barry’s Wee! you may have noticed that the spare tire looks a little pack rattish! Care to guess what he carries in it?

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The three amigos in paradise